• 01

    Valentino Uomo Intense created by perfumer Sophie Labbé is the fragrance possessing the symptomatic mystery of a strong personality. It encloses the olfactive sensation of black suede, refined by the fusion of clary sage and tangerine, and is emphasized by the light notes of citrus and of iris absolute enhanced by the pleasing notes of vanilla and tonka.

  • 02

    black suede \blæk sweid\ n. Damma Nigra Italy

    Royal leather: from gants de Suède, literally «gloves of Sweden». ♦ Oxymoron: both soft and strong. Dark in colour and smooth to the touch. ♦ Symbol of intense masculinity and utmost elegance; cf. black leather and blue suede shoes: no compromise allowed ♦ Captivating smell: The smell of suede gloves – this tawny smell like sweet musk – usually troubled her. (Zola) ♦ History of perfume: Suede and leather notes evoked the birch tar applied to the Cossacks’ leather boots. ♦ Today: a perfumer’s accord made of smoked wood, leather molecules, oriental notes and musky undertones.

  • 03

    clary sage \ˈkleəri seɪʤ\ n. Salvia Sclarea France

    Aromatic plant native to the northern Mediterranean countries ♦ Medicinal properties, including: relief for anxiety and fear, an aphrodisiac. ♦ Etymology: Salvia means “safe, saved” and sclarea means “hard”. Proverb: “The sage’s desire is to make man immortal” ♦ Olfactive Description: an aromatic lavender floral fruity top note on a strong ambergris base, with a sensual spicy effect. Highly faceted. ♦ The perfect balance between tradition and modernity. It gives an olfactory patina to perfumes. It is the natural precursor of modern amber molecules in chemistry ♦ Highly valued: a long time ago, one trunk of sage would be worth four trunks of tea. (Lamarck)

  • 04

    vanilla beans \vəˈnɪlə biːn\ n. Vanilla Planifolia Indian Ocean

    The fruit of a Mexican orchid later cultivated on islands of the Indian Ocean and known as Vanilla Bourbon. ♦ Mouth-watering: vanilla is now the world’s most famous and favourite sweet spice. ♦ Olfactive description: sweet, balsamic, with blond tobacco notes. ♦ In perfumery it is linked to the oriental family, composed of sweet amber perfumes. ♦ Value: vanilla bean extract is much more expensive than the synthetic vanillin. ♦ Xocoatl recipe: in the Aztec and Maya cultures, vanilla beans were associated with the preparation of chocolate, reserved for nobles and warriors. ♦ Myth: according to legend, the tropical orchid grew where the blood of a murdered princess and her lover fell to the ground.

  • 06

    iris absolute \ˈaɪərɪs ˈæbsəluːt\ n. Iris Pallida Absoluta Italy

    Rhizomatous plant with delicate scented flowers. ♦ Olfactive description: deep, floral, powerful and a long-lasting powdery note. ♦ Value: one of the most sophisticated and expensive raw materials in perfumery. Known as “blue gold.” ♦ A perfume in itself. The iris does not need another smell. (Barbe) ♦ Patience and maturity: it takes three years between the harvest of the iris root and extraction to get the best from the rhizome: an absolute with a high concentration of irone, the iconic molecule of iris. ♦ Italian; a symbol of the city of Florence; born and harvested in the stony earth of Tuscany. ♦ Rainbow: an arc of spectral colours produced by iridescence.

  • 05

    mandarin \ˈmændərɪn\ n. Citrus Reticulata Italy

    Dark orange, small citrus fruit, with a thin skin and sweet pulp. ♦ Hesperidic: named after the golden fruit harvested in the mythic garden of the Hesperides: Hera’s orchard. ♦ Olfactive description: a very clean and natural scent, with a fresh aldehydic zesty top note. ♦ Symbol of distinction: native to China, the mandarin orange was a refined present for the Mandarins, who gave their name to the fruit. ♦ Sun-kissed: known as the sun of winter. The delicious flavour of the mandarin orange and other citrus fruits brightens cold winter days. Evoking moods of southern Italy, it is the fruit of joy and enthusiasm. ♦ Provence: an exceptional, festive fruit.

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